Sticky and fragrant ash cake

Banh tro is a traditional dish preserved and passed down from generation to generation by the Nung ethnic group in Dak Xuan village, Dak Ui commune, Quang Ngai province. It is not elaborate in appearance, nor does it have fillings like many other types of sticky rice cakes, but Banh tro is attractive because of its unique flavor, elaborate preparation and very unique culinary culture.

According to Ms. Luan Thi Bay, an elderly person in Dak Xuan village, banh tro is an indispensable dish during important holidays and festivals such as Lunar New Year, July 15th, and Doan Ngo Festival. When the Nung people migrated to this land under the new economic program from Cao Bang province, banh tro also followed them to the Central Highlands and became a part of the community's cultural life.

What makes banh tro different from other types of sticky rice cakes lies in the special ingredients used in the processing. That is the ash water made from the firewood of the "mac thet" tree (as the Nung people call it). This is a woody tree with a red core and small yellow fruits, considered a medicinal plant. After burning it into ash, people compress the ash in a basket and slowly pour water on top. The water after flowing through the ash layer will have a light yellow color and a characteristic aroma. This is a step that requires a lot of experience. If the ash is not compressed carefully or other types of firewood are used, the ash water will not meet the requirements in terms of smell and color.

Ms. Bay said that the ash water is only delicious when the maker is skilled. If using regular firewood, the resulting water will be bland, not fragrant and colorless. After being carefully filtered, the ash water will be mixed with filtered water in the appropriate ratio, add a little salt, then boil and let cool. Depending on the experience of each family, the mixing ratio will be different. If the ash water is too thick, the cake will be strong and difficult to eat; if mixed too thin, the characteristic flavor will be bland.

The sticky rice used to make the cake must be pure sticky rice, not mixed with regular rice. After washing it two to three times, the maker will pour in the filtered ash water mixture and soak it for three to six hours. During the soaking process, the rice grains will gradually turn yellow, becoming softer and stickier. This is an important step that creates the color and stickiness of the cake after boiling.

Another special feature in the Nung people’s process of making ash cakes is the use of dot leaves to wrap the cakes. These leaves often grow wild along the forest edge, and are picked early in the morning when they are still soft and have not been dried or rolled up by the sun. After being picked, the leaves are washed and blanched in boiling water to increase their flexibility and make them easier to wrap. According to Ms. Bay, only dot leaves can retain the characteristic flavor of ash cakes. If wrapped in dong or banana leaves, the cakes will no longer have the aroma of ash water and will lose their inherent soul.

After wrapping, the cakes are dropped into a pot of cold water. The cakes that sink to the bottom will be boiled, while the cakes that float are often undercooked and unevenly cooked, so they must be set aside. Ash cakes are not like regular sticky rice cakes that only need to be boiled for one to two hours. The Nung people usually boil Ash cakes for seventeen hours. During this process, absolutely do not add new water, because that will reduce the richness and affect the taste of the cake.

After scooping out the cake, the maker must let it drain naturally. When peeling off the leaves, the cake reveals its characteristic golden color. Even without filling, the ash cake is still soft and chewy, with a refreshing, slightly nutty, and fatty taste. The faint aroma of ash water mixed with sticky rice creates a sophistication that no other cake can replace.

Ms. Bay added that in many years of making cakes, she has never seen the appeal of banh tro lose. On holidays and Tet, no matter how busy they are, Nung families in the village still prepare ingredients to make dozens of cakes, sharing them with their children and grandchildren to offer to their ancestors. It is not only a traditional dish but also a symbol of community unity and preserving national identity.

For the Nung ethnic people in Dak Xuan village, banh tro is not only a part of the cuisine but also a connection to the homeland, a memory, a cultural beauty. Through each layer of palm leaves, each grain of yellow sticky rice, the small cake tells the story of preserving and cultivating traditional values in the daily life of the people here.

LAC THUY

Source: https://baolamdong.vn/deo-thom-banh-tro-389185.html