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Island life, human fate

QTO - In the middle of the vast blue ocean, three small islands Hon La, Hon Co, and Yen Island (Phu Trach commune) appear like three precious gems, lovingly and cherished by the hands of the ocean. There, the symphony of waves crashing on the rocks, the wind blowing through the sim hills, and the strong salty scent seeps into every calloused hand and settles in every life story. There, many people entrust their youth, and then spend their whole lives faithfully with the ocean.

Báo Quảng TrịBáo Quảng Trị25/08/2025

Hon La Island - Photo: D.H
Hon La Island - Photo: DH

1. Hon La Island is located near the shore. On this island, the sovereignty flagpole stands tall, bright red in the morning sun, proudly flying in the deep blue sky. Fishermen still affectionately call it the “heart” of the island, because every time they return from the open sea, amidst the vast waves, seeing the flag is like feeling the warmth of home, of the beloved motherland.

Now, when going to Hon La, you no longer have to drift on wooden boats, against the waves and wind. The sea dike connecting Hon La with Hon Co is more than 300 meters long, the dike surface is 9 meters wide, solidly built from giant boulders and covered with wave-dissipating concrete weighing up to several dozen tons.

Completed in late 2015, the dike is a bridge connecting the two islands, opening up the dream of a deep-water port to welcome giant ships sailing out to sea. For fishermen, it is like a soft “silk strip”, connecting the arduous past with the open future, connecting long journeys with peaceful landings.

The people of the fishing villages at the foot of Ngang Pass all know the rhythm of the tides by heart. Early in the morning, when the mist still hangs over the sea, they diligently untangle their nets. In the afternoon, their nets are heavy with fish, their eyes light up with joy under the shadow of the flagpole.

On Hon La Island, where the wind blows all year round, the soldiers' footsteps remain steady through many stormy seasons. After each trip to sea, the coastal people feel at peace, as if they have a trustworthy shoulder to lean on in the midst of the vast ocean waves.

2. From Hon La, go up the windy dike to Hon Co, a small island covered in green grass mixed with dry, sunburnt yellow. The rocky outcrops stretch out into the sea like open hands, embracing and caressing each white-capped wave. This place is most beautiful at dawn, when the whole space is gilded in the early morning sunlight.

The towering lighthouse on Hon Co is about to come into operation. And tomorrow, when its light steadfastly sweeps through the dark night, it will guide the ships that are tirelessly returning to shore. Because for every fisherman who spends the year amidst the fierce waves, every time they see the lighthouse, they seem to hear the call of the mainland, of peace after days of drifting on the water.

The beautiful rocky beaches of Hon Co have become ideal check-in and camping spots for tourists. At the foot of the lighthouse, a few groups of young people set up tents overnight, waking up early to welcome the rosy sunrise rising from the distant Yen Island. They climbed the rocky outcrops, let their hands fly into the wind, and blend into the peaceful and immense space of the sky and the blue sea.

Every season the sim flowers bloom, Hon Co puts on a gentle purple coat. The tiny flower clusters are fragile but resilient against the offshore wind, just like the people of the coastal region, despite the harshness, they are still resilient, quietly growing up. When the fruit season comes, the sim branches are heavy, children pick their shirts full, running barefoot on the ground, biting into their teeth, the sweet taste mixed with a bit of astringency on the tip of their tongue.

3. Unlike Hon La and Hon Co, to explore Yen Island, you have to sail on a motorboat, overcoming the waves and wind. The trip takes more than 20 minutes, but that is the time when the sea breeze hits your face, the salty taste seeps into your lips, and your eyes open to the endless blue.

The man who guided us had just turned 40, with skin that had been salty from the sun and wind and a distinctive coastal accent. He said he grew up with the rhythm of the waves and the salty taste of the sea. So when he talked about the sea, his voice was deep and warm, as if he was talking about a lover.

He knows in detail which seasons the sea is gentle, which seasons the sea is fierce, where there are dangerous undercurrents, where the nets are full of fish and shrimp. Loving the sea, loving this wild island, he chose to anchor close to the island, raise fish, and improve the economy . His love for the island grew gradually, as natural as breathing.

Yen Island nestles at the foot of the majestic Hoanh Son, with an area of ​​about 3km², surrounded by steep rocks and clear blue water. This is where the tomb of the famous general Tran Dat of the Tran Dynasty is located. The tomb is located next to a pure fresh water well, which is a precious source. The well never dries up, just like the sea people's love for the island never runs out.

On the steep cliffs are the shelter of hundreds of swiftlets. Early in the morning, the chirping of swiftlets blends with the murmuring sound of waves, creating an endless symphony of the ocean. The most enjoyable feeling is when climbing to the highest peak, sitting quietly on the cliff, watching the swiftlets hovering, to feel the strangely primitive and sacred nature of this place.

4. People from the old Guangdong region love the sea patiently and persistently. There is an old man who has never been far from this sea in his life, only wandering around the small islands in the middle of Hon La Bay. There are people who spend their old age diligently climbing the lighthouse on Hon Co, taking care of every window and every entrance and exit.

There are also people who tirelessly follow each offshore trip, even though storms seem to knock them down many times, they never once think of leaving the sea or their homeland. There are seasons when the sea is so rough, the waves crash white on the shore, and boats have to anchor. So for people in this coastal area, Hon Co-Hon La is like a "nest" to anchor boats during the difficult sea season.

The three islands are three pearls in the middle of the sea. They are also the flesh and blood, the memories and the future of many people in this coastal village. On each path leading to the island, soaked with salty sweat, bright smiles and the losses that the sea has brought to the people for generations are imprinted. They are three sacred pearls, connecting human fates with the great ocean.

Dieu Huong

Source: https://baoquangtri.vn/dat-va-nguoi-quang-tri/202508/doi-dao-phan-nguoi-6c75f2e/


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